Pedestrian Paris... a perfect day

 the walk:  Pantheon/Jardins Luxembourg/Jardins des Tullienes/Montemartre

“GO IT ALONE” is often my motto.  In that mode, I don’t get the pleasure of sharing the experience, seeing new things through the observations of others, or fun conversation.  On the other hand, when I’m solo… I’m able to walk as far as my long legs will carry me.  For four days in Paris, I was paired up with a dear sweet friend who was kind enough to give me enough walking to keep me sane. 
[Jen in Montmarte]:

 

We booked an apartment through Yellowstay.  Ours was conveniently located just north of the Seine River in the area of Hotel de Ville and the Pompidou Center.  On our first full day, we opted for a riverboat cruise through Bateaux Mouches, embarking from Pont de l’Alma, not far from the Eiffel Tower.   For those who aren’t so enthusiastic about walking, it’s 10 Euros well spent for viewing a high volume of buildings, monuments, and bridges. 
[view from the riverboat]:

 

The next day, it had to be walking.  The main points of our route:  The Pantheon, Luxembourg Gardens, Tullienes Gardens, and Montemarte. 

We started heading south on Rue Saint Martin, which turns into Rue de la Cite.  Crossing over the Seine, one could easily take a quick detour on Ile de la Cite (turning left, heading east) to have a look at the great gothic architecture of the Notre Dame Cathedral and its grounds which contain a fountain and beautiful varieties of roses. 
[roses @ Notre Dame]:

 

Staying on Rue de la Cite we passed by Sorbonne, the historic University of Paris.  Just past the university, we hung a left on Rue Soufflet.  Going southeast, it was a short walk to the Pantheon.   Though the innards of the great domed Pantheon are no doubt a feast for the eyes, contain the remains of Rousseau, Voltaire, Marie Curie, and Louis Braille among others, and were the location of Foucault’s original pendulum, we did not go in (lame, I know!).  Instead, we circumambulated its magnificence while enjoying the fresh breeze and blue skies of a lovely spring morning.   
[the Pantheon]

 

Back onto Rue Soufflet, we strolled west through the Jardins Luxembourg.  The garden is the perfect calm in the middle of a monster city, with its numerous shaded benches and gentle fountains.  From the west side of the park, we took Rue Guynemer, crossed over Rue de Vaugirard, and followed Rue Bonaparte, continuing north.  Turning left to go northwest on Boulevard Saint-Germaine presents the opportunity for some upscale shopping and window gazing.  At a large roundabout we took a right on Rue du Bac, which led us north again towards the river.  Crossing at Pont Royal took us directly to Jardins Tullienes.  Here’s another lovely, wide-open, manicured garden meticulously landscaped to emphasize its variety of flowers and trees. 

 

By then, we were hungry for lunch.  Exiting the north side of the park via Rue des Pyramides, we quickly found a suitable café at the corner of Rue Saint-Honore:  La Rotonde des Tuileries.  The usual sidewalk seating of cafés provides a great resting place for people watching, and this was no exception. 
[cafe lined streets of Montemartre]:

 

Two blocks north of the café, we hopped on the metro to Montmartre for a stroll through the northern hilltop district.  Montmartre is a quaint, artsy part of town that lies around the jaw-dropping Basilica of the Sacré Cœur.  Around the area, we passed by the one-time studios of Van Gogh and Picasso.  We wanted to see the Dali museum, but it was closed.   For a refreshing snack on that warm afternoon, we delighted in cones of creamy, fruity gelato while browsing the works of artists in Place du Tertre.  There, I bought a reasonably priced colorful oil painting of a local café-front.  We once again headed around to the Basilica to enjoy the view of the city.  Down the stairs, we stopped to enjoy live music and watch a highly coordinated free-style footballer performing atop a narrow pedestal. 
[freestyle footballer, Iya Traore]: 

We descended down the hill towards the metro station, stopping at a small nearby park to take a look at the Wall of Love.  Written on a black brick wall is “I love you” in more languages than I could count.  We hopped back on the metro, headed back to the apartment and took a rest. 
[the wall of "I love you"s, Montmartre]:

 

For the ideal ending to a perfect day in Paris, we went to the nearby grocery and fruit market, stocked up on wine and food, and walked down to the riverbank for a picnic.  As we savored the wine, figs, cheese, olives, baguette, and nuts, I removed my Chacos and she wore Converse… we were satisfied from head to toe.   

France by chance

PARIS NEVER CAME CLOSE to topping my list of “places to go”.  Actually, it probably wasn’t even in the top 100.  But here I am, boarding a flight at Charles De Gaulle.  Paris was four days and nights of ideal weather- plenty of sunshine, yet not sweltering hot.  From what I’ve heard and what I perceive to be true, many regard the city of lights as a most romantic city to spend a holiday.  Why are people so charmed?  Is it the art, the literature, and the music?  Is it the café-lined streets housing a most diverse crowd of inhabitants enjoying gourmet delicacies and seemingly warm conversations?  Perhaps it’s the common sight of embraces hello, and long kisses goodbye.  The politeness of Parisians is apparent all day long.  There are hellos in the elevators, held doors throughout the metro stations, and greetings in the bakeries and markets.  The wine flows like the River Seine, cutting through the city, keeping her alive and moving, gracefully dancing.  The architecture is magnificent, with each building carrying beauty.  Impressive columns, statues, monuments, gardens, fountains, carvings, and churches are so common that it’s almost too much.  The structures and spaces are all so nice that the individual beauty ceases to stand out and we’re left with a single, breathing, and gorgeous hunk of elegance that is the city of Paris.  And that's just the surface.  
[J-Pa with a guidebook, near the Pantheon]:

 

Yes, there’s the Eiffel Tower, which does tend to stand out.  Seen from various points in the distance, it pierces the hearts of so many with that cliché of romanticism.  I do appreciate big pieces of metal, and seeing so much metal up close wowed me.  I was over it after a short time.  It didn’t hit my gut, and I never expected it would have.  It didn’t disappoint, perhaps the lack of expectation being why.  The tower is quite unique, with a great merge of phallic height and feminine curvature.  As the last bit of daylight finally faded after 10 p.m., it was illuminated with a soft amber glow. 
[the Eiffel Tower]:

The grassy stretch to the south made for an ideal gathering of picnickers.  Large circles of friends and intimate pairs spread out comfortably upon blankets fill the lawn.  Facing the tower, one can watch the sun’s slow descent as the sky darkens and clouds turn from white, to pink, to grey.  From the base to the tip of the tower, white lights occasionally sparkled and danced to the cheers of the lounging, drunken crowd.  Champagne bottles popped as vendors made their rounds offering wine, beer, smokes, and souvenirs. 
[a woman, as seen from a boat along the Seine]:

 

As darkness settled into night, the crowd also darkened, emanating that wild, fake drunken energy.  It was during that hour that my dear companion, Jen, left to find a restroom.  I sat on the blanket, watching and listening to the others around me.  A moment turned into an unreasonably long time for her to be gone, and I began to worry.  In the meantime, I packed up our trash and leftover foods.  After more than half an hour, she finally returned and we were ready to go.  I hit the toilet in the way out, in the form of a squat among a dark patch of bushes.  To get back to our room, we rode the ageing, sturdy metro alongside some drunk, some quiet, interestingly dressed others.  We rolled into the space after midnight, and that was my last of four evenings in Paris.  I was exhausted and relieved to be through with such a splendid monster of a city.  
[the church @ Montemarte]: